In a city obsessed with culinary trends, one restaurant in Shau Kei Wan has been quietly defying the ebb and flow of Hong Kong’s dining fads for more than three decades. Authentic Tanka Cuisine in Hong Kong at Kam Tung Kitchen.
Kam Tung Kitchen, run by the Po family, is more than a place to eat — it is a living archive of authentic Tanka cuisine in Hong Kong, preserving a rare heritage born on the water and steeped in generations of fishing traditions.
From sea urchin toast to salted fish pot, every dish tells the story of a once-ostracised boat-dwelling community, and the family’s tireless commitment to keeping those flavours — and the people who make them — alive.
From the Sea to the City: A Heritage at Risk
Nestled within the Clear Water Bay Peninsula lies Po Toi O, a U-shaped fishing village where the Tanka people once lived exclusively on boats. Over centuries, these “boat dwellers” moved ashore, their maritime way of life giving way to urbanisation. Yet, fragments of the culture endure — especially in the kitchens.
Building Kam Tung Kitchen — And Rebuilding It Again
Back then, it was a “bring your own” seafood spot, where fishermen brought their daily catch to be transformed into hearty Tanka feasts. Expansion was rapid, but so were the risks — at one point, the family was in debt equivalent to the value of four Hong Kong homes.
Twelve years later, the debt was paid, and Kam Tung Kitchen evolved into a culinary institution, drawing loyal locals and celebrities such as Eric Tsang Chi-wai and Alan Tam Wing-lun.
A New Generation Returns to the Roots
Marco Po Ho-sang, once resisted the family trade, opting for finance careers in investment banking and private equity. But a late-night epiphany drew him back to the kitchen. His mission: elevate Tanka cuisine without losing its soul.
He has since streamlined Kam Tung’s menu from 150 to 100 dishes, introduced service upgrades, and digitized operations. Yet, sourcing remains fiercely local — from wild seaweed scraped off coastal rocks to squid dried by the family’s elders.
The Treasure: A Private Kitchen for Tanka Fine Dining
This month, the family will unveil The Treasure, a private kitchen above Kam Tung Kitchen that reimagines Tanka dining through a Japanese-inspired omakase lens. The rotating menu will spotlight rare delicacies such as roasted goose stuffed with fish maw — a Tanka symbol of wealth — and lo mein with dried seafood.
Every dish will be prepared personally by Po Yau-fai and Ada Kwok, ensuring authenticity down to the last grain of rice. The aim is to position it among Hong Kong’s refined culinary experiences.
Preserving a Vanishing Taste of Hong Kong
While Tanka traditions may be fading in modern Hong Kong, Kam Tung Kitchen stands as a testament to what’s possible when heritage meets passion.
If you’re in Shau Kei Wan — or anywhere from Kowloon to Tseung Kwan O — Kam Tung Kitchen isn’t just a restaurant. It’s one of Hong Kong’s last living connections to Tanka culture, served fresh, with love, and with a story on every plate.
